Borderland

Reporting on the front lines of history in Greece

An Uncertain Future for the Anarchists of Exarchia

By Anna Wolcke ATHENS – On a summer day, tourists and locals alike can be found in Kolonaki, one of Athens’ most affluent neighborhoods, sipping on cappuccinos, chatting with friends or leisurely walking alongside the most expensive stores in the city. Few ever leave to go to Exarchia, a neighborhood a mere five-minute walk away.

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Holding onto Home: How Refugees Changed the Greek Muslim Community

By Amy Abdalla  ATHENS — In a quiet neighborhood here, a small sign hangs in the garage entryway of an otherwise nondescript building. In both Arabic and English, it reads Al-Salam Mosque. On Friday afternoons, the place comes alive with men and women flooding through the garage. Taking off their shoes before descending the damp

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After Twin Crises, Lesbos Struggles to Recover

MYTILENE , Greece — At first glance, the capital of the island of Lesbos appears to be a bustling economic center. Businesses with Greek, Turkish, and English signs ring the U-shaped port. Tourists stroll past hotels, locals mix at local bars and restaurants, and street merchants call to potential customers. But Mytilene  looks different on

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‘Give Us an Oxygen Mask’ – The Drive to Save Lesbos Tourism

By Jack Allen MOLYVOS, Greece —  “What would you do – right now – if an overfilled lifeboat arrived on this beach?” It is a question that doesn’t seem to trouble any of the Aphrodite Hotel’s mid-June sunbathers, who lie unperturbed on the hotel’s private beach. But it’s a question that many tourists coming through Aphrodite

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A Place for Respite: The Café Opposite Moria Refugee Camp

By Jack Allen MORIA, Greece — The lunchtime rush is not a good time to interview Kostas Dripadis at his restaurant across the road from Moria refugee camp. “It’s the busiest time of the day – we have migrants, NGO workers and the camp administration all visiting to order food,” he explained. Dripadis set up

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Long Wait For Asylum Leaves Migrants Struggling

By Brillian Bao ATHENS — Abdelrahman Abudan has been seeking asylum since 2006. That year, he left Palestine for Greece following a family disagreement. But Abudan was turned back upon arriving, told that he did not have a compelling case for asylum here. As fighting raged in his hometown, Abudan left for Greece once again

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A New Forever Situation

By Marissa Michaels ATHENS — When she arrived in Greece as a refugee, Veeda Rahmani did not expect to still be here three and a half years later. Unemployed, Rahmani and her mother are unable to join family in Canada as they had hoped In Afghanistan, Rahmani taught Farsi to post-graduates. Here, she cannot find

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Following the Anarchists, in Three Chapters

by Anna Wolcke EXARCHIA, Athens – From the outside, the School of Philosophy at the University of Athens looks like any other university building: Nine floors of gray walls, posters, classrooms and a small cafeteria. Students sit on benches, studying for their final exams, and professors hurry past. On a first glance, everything seems normal.

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Cooking Up a New Future for Lesbos

By Marissa Michaels MYTILINI, Greece –– Rich aromas pervade Nan, a restaurant in Lesbos’ port city of Mytilini, distinguished by its blend of traditional Greek foods and the cuisines of the refugees that work there. Nan’s multicultural menu changes daily, updated with a board of specials, including their $5 Nantails. Much of its international customer

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Explainer: Greeks Vote for a New Government

By Tom Salotti ATHENS — Greek nationals head to the polls today to decide who will be leading the Hellenic Republic for the next five years. In late May, current Prime Minister Alex Tsipras called for snap elections, after his Syriza party suffered a defeat in the country’s European Parliament elections. New Democracy, a conservative

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