{"id":99,"date":"2022-12-07T20:58:01","date_gmt":"2022-12-08T01:58:01","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/commons.princeton.edu\/literatureandfashion\/?p=99"},"modified":"2022-12-12T22:39:20","modified_gmt":"2022-12-13T03:39:20","slug":"madeleines-robe-between-hitchcocks-vertigo-1958-and-goyos-woman-dressing","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/commons.princeton.edu\/literatureandfashion\/madeleines-robe-between-hitchcocks-vertigo-1958-and-goyos-woman-dressing\/","title":{"rendered":"Madeleine\u2019s Robe: Between Hitchcock\u2019s Vertigo (1958) and Goyo\u2019s Woman Dressing"},"content":{"rendered":"<p style=\"text-align: left\">By Fizzah Arshad<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u201cHe<\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400\"> made you over just like I made you over. Only better. Not only the clothes and the hair, but the looks and the manner and the words.\u201d \u2014\u00a0Scottie<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-182 alignleft\" src=\"https:\/\/commons.princeton.edu\/literatureandfashion\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/335\/2022\/12\/tempImageMEnxSK-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"159\" height=\"437\" srcset=\"https:\/\/commons.princeton.edu\/literatureandfashion\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/335\/2022\/12\/tempImageMEnxSK-scaled.jpg 932w, https:\/\/commons.princeton.edu\/literatureandfashion\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/335\/2022\/12\/tempImageMEnxSK-109x300.jpg 109w, https:\/\/commons.princeton.edu\/literatureandfashion\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/335\/2022\/12\/tempImageMEnxSK-373x1024.jpg 373w, https:\/\/commons.princeton.edu\/literatureandfashion\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/335\/2022\/12\/tempImageMEnxSK-768x2110.jpg 768w, https:\/\/commons.princeton.edu\/literatureandfashion\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/335\/2022\/12\/tempImageMEnxSK-559x1536.jpg 559w, https:\/\/commons.princeton.edu\/literatureandfashion\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/335\/2022\/12\/tempImageMEnxSK-745x2048.jpg 745w, https:\/\/commons.princeton.edu\/literatureandfashion\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/335\/2022\/12\/tempImageMEnxSK-516x1418.jpg 516w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 159px) 100vw, 159px\" \/>Among the works featured in The Met exhibit, \u201cKimono Style,\u201d is Hashiguchi Goyo\u2019s <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">Woman Dressing<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">. In this woodblock print, a woman ties her nagajuban, a robe worn under kimonos. The print is vertical and shines with mica (more visible in-person), highlighting the simple elegance of the muse. Considering also the red pattern and the woman\u2019s updo, it is difficult to not think of Madeleine from Alfred Hitchcock\u2019s <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vertigo <\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">(1958). The scene that particularly comes to mind takes place after Scottie rescues her from drowning in the San Francisco Bay.\u00a0<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">This scene is significant for two main reasons: It features the first interaction between Scottie and \u201cMadeleine,\u201d and is the first and only time Scottie is able to save her (or at least believe that he has). She awakes in his house, unclothed and with damp hair, and he offers her his red silk robe to wear. Enveloped in a stranger\u2019s clothes, curled up in a stranger\u2019s home, Madeleine appears to be the more vulnerable and unaware participant but in fact has the upper hand. Unbeknownst to Scottie, Madeleine\u2019s jumping into the bay, her meandering drives, and her subsequent conversations with him are all contrived. Her power is palpable, for example, when she uses Scottie\u2019s intrusive questions to flirt with him and to justify interrogating him in his own house. Later in the film, she acknowledges, \u201cI want you to have peace of mind. You have nothing to blame yourself for. You were the victim\u201d (110), taking responsibility for the murder and for deluding Scottie. For him, peace of mind of course never comes.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">How might Judy be dressed if the scene was shown from her perspective, bearing in mind her mission? How does she assume Madeleine&#8217;s persona with such ease in front of others? <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">Woman Dressing<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400\"> fills the gaps in the film: how Judy makes herself presentable behind the closed bedroom doors, to then emerge and resume her performance. My drawing takes inspiration from the design of the nagajuban in <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">Woman Dressing<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The resulting robe is one that better reflects how Judy mediates Scottie\u2019s perception of her. The central adaptations from <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">Woman Dressing<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400\"> are the styling of an updo <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">before <\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">changing and coming out of the room, the reduction of red in favor of a blank ivory, and the addition of a green sash.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-102 alignright\" src=\"https:\/\/commons.princeton.edu\/literatureandfashion\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/335\/2022\/12\/Vertigo.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"332\" height=\"221\" srcset=\"https:\/\/commons.princeton.edu\/literatureandfashion\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/335\/2022\/12\/Vertigo.jpeg 900w, https:\/\/commons.princeton.edu\/literatureandfashion\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/335\/2022\/12\/Vertigo-300x200.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/commons.princeton.edu\/literatureandfashion\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/335\/2022\/12\/Vertigo-768x512.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/commons.princeton.edu\/literatureandfashion\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/335\/2022\/12\/Vertigo-516x344.jpeg 516w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 332px) 100vw, 332px\" \/><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">Dyeing and styling Judy\u2019s hair is one of the crucial steps of making her over into Madeleine, who is never seen without her rolled updo. This scene is an exception. Her messy ponytail makes her guard seem down; for a moment she gazes into the fire with a hint of sorrow and loneliness. Is it a flicker of Judy or the doomed Madeleine? As soon as she fixes her hair into an adapted version of her swirled updo, her posture becomes more erect, her tone more assertive. Yet, despite the change in demeanor and the impression of vulnerability, Judy upholds the persona she has adopted from the beginning of the scene to the end. While her hair is down, she does not divulge any secrets, but does, however, milk the Carlotta Valdes ruse. For example, in an even more vulnerable state, sleep, she mumbles, \u201cHave you seen my child?\u201d (44:30), re-enacting Carlotta\u2019s tragedy. Judy\u2019s loose hair, then, is a red herring; it is as though she has been sporting her charged updo all along. Accordingly, the altered image has pins, and a mirror and hair brush set, so that in an alternative version of this scene, Madeleine not only covers herself with the robe, but coifs her hair before presenting herself to Scottie.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the scene in question, a sort of exchange of personal colors occurs. Scottie, red, is in a green sweater and Madeleine, green, dons a red robe. Indeed, while both colors frequently appear alongside one another, such as in the wallpapered restaurant, Scottie\u2019s vertigo is depicted in red. In contrast, green follows Madeleine, or more precisely, the illusion of Madeleine, through her car, clothing, and even the garden she wanders through. The exchange of colors expresses a transaction or connection between the two. But the basis for this is a falsehood: Scottie\u2019s sense of his own heroism more so than legitimately saving Judy\u2019s life. Therefore red in my drawing is minimized, and relegated to Carlotta\u2019s necklace and the sash. Through both the necklace and the spiral motif in general, Judy effectively embodies Madeleine\u2014the femme fatale. Further, by leaching red out of the robe, what remains is a color akin to Madeleine\u2019s platinum blonde hair.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">Madeleine, or Judy, is always most green when she is \u201creincarnated.\u201d After Madeleine is publicly deemed dead, Judy appears walking on the street in a startling green set, head-to-toe (1:31:50). And even more notably, when Judy at last dons the signature gray suit she has been resisting, \u201cbecoming\u201d Madeleine again, an eerie green aura pervades the room (1:55:38). Waking up after having plunged into the San Francisco Bay is too a sort of reincarnation, necessitating some presence of green which is absent in the original robe. By selecting green for the sash in the altered image, Judy is figuratively wrapped in the mirage of a living Madeleine.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">The act of putting on undergarments or loungewear is quite different from that of putting on clothes for the day. It is private, intermediate, and less anxiety-inducing, as those garments are not for the public eye. Though the dimensions and sweeping patterns of Goyo\u2019s <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">Woman Dressing<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400\"> compel vertical eye movement along the subject\u2019s body, her expression remains serene and poised. The subject seems unaware of the voyeurism that Judy in <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vertigo<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is made to anticipate and even elicit from her position of seductive power. Indeed, Judy forms Madeleine\u2019s first impression when she steps out of the bedroom \u201cdressed\u201d and Scottie gazes at her admiringly.\u00a0<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">Judy is fashioned into Madeleine; Madeleine is fashioned into Carlotta; Judy is fashioned into Madeleine yet again. It is within all these restraints that the Madeleine who wears the altered robe is in control. Only <em>she<\/em> is capable of misleading Scottie, whether or not she is falling in love with him. Even though the alteration of the robe is done to better express and emphasize Judy\u2019s power and Madeleine&#8217;s aura (translated from mica to a glitter pattern in the drawing), the artist becomes complicit in the scrutiny and policing of Judy\u2019s body. Through the exercise itself of picking apart the robe\u2014the simplest garment Judy wears, her treatment in the film of and by others is modeled.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><b>Works Cited<\/b><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">Coppel, Alec and Samuel Taylor. (1957).<\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Vertigo <\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">[PDF Screenplay]. https:\/\/www.scriptslug.com\/assets\/scripts\/vertigo-1985.pdf\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">Goyo, Hashiguchi. <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">Woman Dressing, <\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">1920. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hitchcock, Alfred. <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vertigo<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Paramount Pictures : Alfred J. Hitchcock Productions, 1958.<\/span><\/p>\n<p>Image from The Metropolitan Museum of Art, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.metmuseum.org\/art\/collection\/search\/44586\">https:\/\/www.metmuseum.org\/art\/collection\/search\/44586<\/a>. Artist: Hashiguchi Goyo.<\/p>\n<p><em><span style=\"font-weight: 400\">I pledge my honour that this paper represents my own work in accordance with University regulations. x Fizzah Arshad.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>By Fizzah Arshad \u201cHe made you over just like I made you over. Only better. Not only the clothes and the hair, but the looks and the manner and the words.\u201d \u2014\u00a0Scottie Among the works featured in The Met exhibit, \u201cKimono Style,\u201d is Hashiguchi Goyo\u2019s Woman Dressing. In this woodblock print, a woman ties her [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4006,"featured_media":100,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-99","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/commons.princeton.edu\/literatureandfashion\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/99","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/commons.princeton.edu\/literatureandfashion\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/commons.princeton.edu\/literatureandfashion\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/commons.princeton.edu\/literatureandfashion\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4006"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/commons.princeton.edu\/literatureandfashion\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=99"}],"version-history":[{"count":11,"href":"https:\/\/commons.princeton.edu\/literatureandfashion\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/99\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":345,"href":"https:\/\/commons.princeton.edu\/literatureandfashion\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/99\/revisions\/345"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/commons.princeton.edu\/literatureandfashion\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/100"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/commons.princeton.edu\/literatureandfashion\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=99"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/commons.princeton.edu\/literatureandfashion\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=99"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/commons.princeton.edu\/literatureandfashion\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=99"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}