She Fled Iran Years Ago. Then The Bombs Fell.

Yasaman Heidarpour hadn’t spoken to her parents in two years. When Israel struck Tehran, she feared she never would again.

By Noah LaBelle

The night of Thursday, June 13th, Yasaman Heidarpour was fast asleep in her Athens apartment when her husband shook her awake. Israeli bombs had struck Tehran, the city they fled nearly a decade ago. She immediately grabbed her phone. Her father’s number, which she knew by heart, wasn’t working. On Instagram, she sent messages to her parents, cousins, high school friends. None delivered; Iran was already experiencing an internet blackout that, days later, the government extended nationwide. “It’s only me and my husband here in Greece,” Heidarpour told me recently. “Everyone is back in Iran, and I couldn’t find anybody.”

After twelve days of conflict—which killed 610 Iranians and injured 4,746 more—Israel and Iran agreed to a ceasefire on June 24th. The next day, while working at the Melissa Network, an Athens-based organization supporting migrant women, Heidarpour noticed her messages had gone through. Her father replied at once: all was well, the internet was back, and if she had time, they could talk. 

Heidarpour, who is thirty-one, hadn’t spoken with her parents in two years. Still, she called straight after work. Once on the line, her parents downplayed everything, saying the airstrikes were nothing serious. Their faces, visibly frightened, told another story—“like they were ten years older,” Heidarpour said. When she asked more questions, her father insisted there was no need, steering the conversation to daily life.

The call brought back complex emotions of what she’d left behind. “I felt really relieved that they are well,” Heidarpour told me, “but still, everything is the same.” As her parents spoke, past memories of never having the right to complain or talk resurfaced. 

***

When she was ten, Heidarpour tried to tell her mother about a man who had harassed her on the streets of Tehran. Before she finished, her mother slapped her: “You don’t say it to anybody—not even to me.” After that, she stopped talking about her feelings. “I was not even saying that I was hungry,” she told me. 

Nine years later, her life changed rapidly. At a wedding, while studying accounting at university, she met her future husband, a second-cousin whose family had been estranged with hers for eight years. She quickly learned why. His father, brothers, and one of his sisters were members of the Islamic Revolutionary Guard Corps, or Sepah, a force tied to militant groups fighting Western and Israeli influence. Her husband had refused to join for years, but the pressure escalated.

“When we got married, they had another option to threaten,” Heidarpour said, referring to herself. “They were threatening us with death.” In December of 2015, it took Heidarpour and her husband just a day to stuff necessities into a backpack and leave. They had no plan beyond Turkey, but found a smuggler who could get them to Greece. 

The sea was frigid in Çeşme, at Turkey’s westernmost end. Four plastic fishing rafts rocked in the surf. Women and children, babies among them, were told to get in first. If there wasn’t space, the men would sit on the edges. Looking back for her husband, Heidarpour saw the smugglers holding guns and knives. Over all the crying and shouting, they growled that there was no choice: “You sit inside the boat, or you die.” When seventy people had been crammed into each, the boats set off, and were soon separated. Water rushed through a hole in hers. As the boat began to sink, she blacked out.

She came to under a large tent. Her husband told her they’d reached Chios, a Greek island seventeen kilometers from the Turkish coast. Only their boat had made it.

They reached Athens aboard a humanitarian vessel the next night, where they landed in Eleonas, a camp already packed with over a thousand refugees. “The first thing I did,” Heidarpour said, “I just removed the scarf, and then said, ‘Okay, here I am, and I’m safe.’” They lived there, calamitously, for more than a year, until a chance encounter with an Afghan woman led Heidarpour to the Melissa Network in November of 2017. Heidarpour, who studied English for fifteen years in Turkey, had arrived just as Melissa’s lone Farsi translator went on maternity leave. She landed the gig that January.

***

What saved Heidarpour during the phone call with her parents was her two daughters, three and five, grabbing the phone. Besides calling to update her parents about their grandchildren two years ago, she kept her distance before the strikes, and hasn’t contacted her parents since. “I have more peace with myself when I’m not in communication with them,” she told me. “Otherwise, I don’t know if I will be such a good mother.” 

On a recent morning, her youngest was trailing her oldest around the house, per usual. The five-year-old had had enough. She turned around and begged for just five minutes of privacy. 

“My daughter already started saying her needs and thoughts and feelings,” Heidarpour said. “You cannot imagine how happy I was.” She had just finished describing her own childhood—robotic, she called it, lived exactly as programmed by her father. 

“I was like, Okay, I think you’re doing well, Yasaman.” ♦

A Source of Light: HipHop4Hope

By Mara DuBois

Diana “Dida” Petríková paused for a moment on the steps outside Empros Theatre in central Athens, looking out at the hundreds of people filling the street. She saw other members of her team from HipHop4Hope, a program dedicated to empowering migrant and refugee youth in Athens, scattered throughout the crowd. She got goosebumps as she took in their work. 

The April sun streamed through the colorful graffiti-filled walls lining the block. With DJ Greetana on music, artists ran graffiti and dance workshops throughout the street and people of all ages and backgrounds joined together in an afternoon of music and expression. The night continued with performances on the Empros stage, capturing the essence of the third annual Raise the Bounce event: a celebration of art, dance, and diversity through community. 

“We had theater acts, big parties, so many people,” Husnain Shahid, 24, who is originally from Pakistan and has lived in Athens for eight years, said. “It was so lovely.”

Hundreds attend events like Raise the Bounce, and workshops attract groups from all over the city and beyond. “We take courage and create things,” Petríková, who moved from Slovakia to Athens last year to work as a dance teacher and coordinator for HipHop4Hope, said. 

But for all its success, the program is now threatened by a global shift in political and ideological priorities that has limited the amount of funding available for NGOs.      

Upon taking office on January 20, 2025, United States President Donald Trump severely cut back on the funding that USAID and the U.S. State Department could distribute to aid organizations worldwide. The impacts of these cuts have reached Greece.

HipHop4Hope fears losing funding as a grant-dependent program under Respect for Greece, a German NGO founded in 2015 to address the EU’s response to the influx of refugees and migrants arriving in Greece. There are fewer grants available for next year as philanthropists prioritize the funding of programs they deem most urgent, and ones that have supported HipHop4Hope for years are unable to give the same amount. “This is the biggest challenge,” Petríková said. “Without resources, we can’t live,” she continued. 

However, in such a divisive time, HipHop4Hope is essential. Over the past 10 years, immigrants from Africa and the Middle East have arrived in Greece hoping to find a new home in the country. Not only does HipHop4Hope provide a space that fosters diversity and is inclusive of these communities, but it also gives migrant youth an outlet to change the trajectory of their lives. 

Shahid joined HipHop4Hope as a student in 2019 where he learned to dance. “Before HipHop4Hope, I was not so good at meeting people. I always had anger issues,” he said. HipHop4Hope made him realize, “you can leave a good impact on anybody.” 

Shahid now works as a receptionist on Kos, a tourist hotspot island in the Aegean Sea. While no longer able to frequent HipHop4Hope workshops or events, dance still holds an everyday presence in his life. He says he practices alone on the beach, and whenever he is back in Athens, dancing with his team is a priority.

Receiving two days off from work the first week of July, Shahid travelled back to Athens for less than 48 hours. Exhausted from a long day of travel, he was in bed early the night he arrived. At 10pm his phone rang. Momo Belhedi, whom Shahid met through HipHop4Hope, was on the other end of the line. “He called me and was like ‘no, no, bro come,’” Shahid said. Shahid went and practiced with his friends, dancers from HipHop4Hope, for two and a half hours that night. 

HipHop4Hope hasn’t only left a permanent mark on Shahid. Petríková has seen dance transform the lives of many youth in the program, and reflected on the role art has played in her life. “I think that’s why I do it, because I feel it also saved my life, in some sense, so I know that it can help others,” she said. 

HipHop4Hope provides an essential outlet for expression that would otherwise be absent from the lives of refugee and migrant youth. 

“I hope we won’t be forced to stop because of these politics,” Petríková said.

This Man Came From Pakistan to Deliver Your Coffee, Pronto

efood has landed on Paros. Its couriers have traversed far more than restaurant doors and seaside roads.

By Noah LaBelle

Zahid Mehmood couldn’t remember the last time he’d done anything but walk and sleep. Nineteen days earlier, he’d set out from Karachi, Pakistan, on foot, before crossing into Turkey. It was December 2015, just before European borders began to tighten. Soon, his feet could take him no further. On the Greek island of Kos—just 4 kilometers off the Turkish coast—he boarded a three-meter boat, crammed with thirteen others, bound for the port of Piraeus.

Once Mehmood made it safely to Athens, he heard that another nineteen people had died attempting the same passage after him. He could only thank God—and the UN, which clothed, fed, and put him up in a hotel for a week. It took him another two months to land a construction gig, the same work he’d done since age fifteen in Islamabad, Pakistan’s capital. 

This May, Mehmood’s boat ride was much less treacherous: a high-speed ferry to Paros, where he now delivers takeout by motorcycle.

“Athens has too much heat,” he told me on a recent Thursday afternoon. “Here, I have the sea. There’s not too much traffic, not too much pollution. It’s a very peaceful place.” He was lounging on a semi-circular stone bench outside the Paros Byzantine Museum with three other couriers in red efood vests, refreshing their food delivery apps. “It’s like a shared office!” Mehmood, thirty, said, a fanny pack slung over his shoulder. They’d clocked in at noon and would stay until ten. In the distance, another ferry pulled in, spilling visitors and their suitcases.

efood launched on Paros this summer. Mehmood stepped away from the scaffolding in 2020, when pandemic lockdowns impelled a food delivery boom. Now, he and eleven other Pakistanis working for efood in Athens have relocated to the island, where they share two villas. They’ve arrived just in time for high season—July through August—when Paros overflows with Greeks and foreigners alike. By September, they’ll return to the mainland.

Tourists come with their culinary tastes, and leave Paros with less of its own. “There are not that many tavernas—it’s my main problem, seriously,” Sophia Katsipi, the president of the Realtors Association of Paros and Antiparos, said. “To go to these little tavernas with the beautiful, local produce…I don’t want to see another sushi place. I’ve had enough.”

While locals may think the island is oversaturated, investors often argue new restaurants or hotels will create jobs for Parians. “But this island doesn’t suffer from unemployment,” Costas Bizas, the mayor of Paros, told me. “So who will you create new jobs for, and how are you going to find those people to work for you?”

The answer, often, is men like Mehmood. (There are enough Pakistanis, Afghans, and Bengalis on the island to field a cricket match on Sundays from six to eight or nine, depending on the number of overs.) What sold Mehmood on moving to Paros was what drew him to efood in Athens, and what pushed him to leave Pakistan: the pay. “After one day of work, it’s finished if you have two people [to provide for],” he said of his hometown.

That didn’t include the heat. In Islamabad, he worked outside, always, on two-story shells that trapped the humidity. In Athens’ high-rises, less sweltering but sweltering still, he sometimes worked indoors. The salary was fixed at seventy euros for eight hours. efood paid a tad better, with looser hours, and no dust. On Paros, his pay doubled to meet the island’s costs. “Now I care for all of my family,” he said: seven siblings, and his parents, his father retired from electrical work.

“If I have papers, I’ll go back and get married,” Mehmood said. That’s proven challenging. He’s been waiting since April 2024 for his third country national application to be approved by the Greek government. “I have nine years of proof, tax proof, doctors notes,” he said. “Maybe it will happen. I don’t know. God only knows.”

The next day, I returned to the pine-shaded area where Mehmood and his crew spend the majority of their waking hours, but he was nowhere to be found. A smattering of cigarette butts lay inside the stone semicircle. Some of his colleagues had draped cardboard sheets over it, more comfortable for long stints.

Soon, Mehmood returned, fresh off a delivery. “It’s a tourist speaking English,” he told me. “His order is eleven euro, but in his mind, it’s ten euro fifty.” Mehmood informed him, and got an apology with the missing coins. As he showed me the receipt on his iPhone, a ping sounded, twice, arpeggiated.

“Oh my God,” he exhaled. He’d been seated for ninety seconds, tops. (The day prior, I hadn’t seen him get a single order during a multi-hour conversation.) Now, onto Orange Cafe, for two coffees and a sandwich. Seventeen euros. He’d earn two forty-seven.

He crossed the street, quick but unhurried. On a side road, motorcycles clustered among parked cars, their red efood boxes ratcheted on tight. One was his, bought last year for €4,200, with an Apple sticker on the front fender.

“I must be careful,” he said, unzipping the box to reveal his helmet. “In Athens, I left helmets on my bike, twice, then I came back: no helmet.”

“I’ll come back, I’ll come back,” he reassured me. “Only just four, five minutes.” The engine revved. He didn’t flip down his visor. Then he was gone—a right at the roundabout, before the coffee could cool.